The adventure began the moment I discovered that we would fly from Edinburgh to Shetland on an ATR-72. Neither of us had ever tried a turboprop before.
The flight was actually very smooth right up until landing.
Wind and rain welcomed us, but we were expecting it, so we had packed proper clothing. It was late so we collected our rental car and headed straight to our B&B accomodation in Lerwick.
Itinerary
We had planned our trip well in advance, considering what we’d like to see and factoring in alternatives based on the weather and the limited daylight of mid-autumn. We made extensive use of a guidebook by Laurie Goodlad. It’s well-written, detailed, and packed with useful information for exploring Shetland.
Day 1
We woke up to a “mild” wind and a thin, persistent rain, so we decided to stay nearby and explore Lerwick on foot, embracing the elements. We managed a couple of hours, but to be honest, it was a bit grim. Eventually, we took a break for lunch. By the afternoon, the weather had worsened, and the wind picked up even more, so we decided to call it a day and hunker down in our room. As night fell, the 60 km/h winds howled endlessly, rattling the building and occasionally making it shake. It was… an interesting experience.
My camera and lens survived. The Lumix G9II is weather-proof and so is my 14-140mm lens, but I kept it inside one of those inexpensive rain covers nonetheless. I had to tape the front of the cover to the lens hood to keep it from sliding away every five seconds. The camera was a bit wet, but not soaking wet, which was good. Using the viewfinder through the transparent rain cover was a nightmare – I couldn’t see a thing, not even the rain droplets on the lens’ front element. As a result, the photos from that day are best appreciated from a distance. Thankfully, that was the only time I had to wrestle with that rain cover from hell.
My wife and I were surprisingly dry inside our waterproof jackets and trousers.
Day 2
We woke up to a bright, sunny morning and we even caught a wonderful rainbow over Bressay from our window! The day was going to be great!
Except that we managed to lock ourselves out of our room, so we had to wait for someone to come and rescue us.
A bit late in the morning, we ventured to Scalloway and then to Burra, Meal Beach, and Minn Beach.
Scalloway is a tiny little village, quiet, full of color and wonderful views. You really can’t beat the light created by the low sun on mornings like this.
At Meal Beach we discovered that the sea can indeed have Caribbean colors even that far north. I’m not usually a fan of landscape shots with the sun at my back, but this one works well to highlight the hues I’m talking about. They become even more striking against such a dark sky.
This composition is much more to my taste: shot against the sun.
Minn Beach is very close and yet very different. There’s an isthmus connecting Mainland to Kettla Ness that is quite remarkable in itself. Walking across that narrow band of land, you can experience powerful winds and majestic views on both sides.
Add some dramatic weather, and what you get is a breathtaking mix between landscape and seascape.
Back in Lerwick we stopped to explore the area near The Knab, just as the weather was turning back to normal wind and drizzle.
Day 3
On that misty, drizzly morning, we headed to the Burn of Lunklet to see Ramnahol, Shetland’s most prominent waterfall. It’s a very short, albeit muddy, walk from the main road and car park.
I was captivated by the colors and the gentle softness of the landscape.
No horrible rain cover this time, despite the drizzle.
I was so happy to be there that I wasn’t thinking straight. In hindsight, I wish I had used a slower shutter speed to smooth out the water. Oh well.
On our way back, we came across what must be the loneliest phone box in the world. I didn’t try it, but it looked like it was still functional. This is exactly my kind of scene.
Day 4
A quick stop at a supermarket to grab a few things before heading to our destination rewarded us with an unforgettable view. Gorgeous, ethereal light exploded right above Bressay Lighthouse. Sometimes, serendipity beats planning.
With this view still fresh in our minds, we headed to the coast at Eshaness.
The drive was filled with unforgettable landscapes. The atmosphere was soft and misty, with the tops of the hills hidden by low clouds. It truly felt like a dreamy journey.
Finally, we reached Eshaness Lighthouse.
I had tears in my eyes. I had never witnessed such raw beauty before. Even today, I still get goosebumps when I look at the photographs I captured there.
So close to the coast, the wind was fierce and cold – but that was only to be expected. Before us stretched the Atlantic Ocean, beneath a dark, gloomy sky.
This time, though, I managed to handle the emotions a bit better and created a breathtaking panorama that turned out pretty awesome in editing.
On our way back to Lerwick I had to stop and photograph a scene that captures a lot of Shetland’s character. The best part of visiting remote places is that you can stop your car almost anywhere to take a picture without bothering anyone.
Day 5
With our return flight to Edinburgh in the late afternoon, we spent the morning exploring the Sumburgh area.
St. Ninian’s Beach was our first stop – a natural isthmus that connects Mainland to St. Ninian’s Isle. In person, it appears more fragile and fleeting than it actually is, so we double-checked to confirm that it’s indeed permanent. Except for two days a year, it’s never completely submerged during high tides. To be extra cautious, we also checked the tide times before venturing across.
It’s longer than it appears, so walking on the wet sand to reach St. Ninian’s Isle took some effort, to be honest – but it was definitely worth it. One thing the photos don’t capture, however, is the sheer amount of rabbit droppings that you can find on the island.
Driving south along the Sumburgh peninsula, we reached Sumburgh Head Lighthouse. The historic building towers above the sea, almost reaching the clouds.
You can walk up to the lighthouse itself, or enjoy a stunning view of it from the vantage point at Compass Head as we did. We had the place to ourselves – well, except for the many sheep and their droppings.
With the weather taking a turn for the worse and our flight to catch, that was our final glimpse of Shetland.
Our Experience
Being in Shetland is an experience unlike any other. Everything feels different from what we’re used to – far more diverse, varied, and vibrant than we ever expected.
In just five days, Shetland stole our hearts for good.
One thing struck me during our first daytime drive across Mainland: it’s inhabited, yet it remains a wild place – almost primal in its essence.
Once you leave Lerwick or the other villages, the only sounds are the wind, the occasional bird passing by, the gentle swooshing of waves on a beach, or the roar of the ocean. I had never experienced a place like that before.
The weather in Shetland is famously unpredictable, and we can certainly attest to that. I truly believe that the weather is an integral part of what makes Shetland, Shetland – it adds to the experience, and it wouldn’t be the same without the frequent rain, the wind, and the low clouds.
Most people visit Shetland in spring and summer, drawn by the promise of better weather. But for us, autumn was fantastic, and I imagine winter holds its own unique wonders too.
Shetland, we’ll return one day.
My Photography
First off, some statistics.
- After triage, I ended up with 654 keeper photos
- 333 made it through editing
- Exactly 100 are 4- and 5-star images, according to my own opinion
- 86 are 3-star.
I did not bring a tripod with me. I can’t think of a single occasion where a tripod would have been beneficial, especially considering the wind, the rain, and the 9-stop stabilization that my Lumix G9II has. I’ve had a carbon fiber tripod for a couple years now and I’ve used it out in the wild maybe twice. Total waste of money, to be honest.
I typically shoot daytime landscapes in aperture priority mode at f/8, ISO 200. In Shetland, I decided to reduce the chances of missing shots by using auto ISO, capped at ISO 1600. With a few isolated exceptions, it was the right choice given the low light.
I had my 100-300mm lens with me but I didn’t use it. I very seldom use it in general, to be honest. Might as well sell it.
When it came to editing, I found it surprisingly challenging. I like to maintain a consistent editing style across the entire set of images from each trip, but settling on one for Shetland was easier said than done. While the weather is often moody, the place itself didn’t feel gloomy in a negative way. In fact, it’s remarkably bright and bursting with color. In the end, I think I found the right settings to capture the essence of Shetland.
Of course, I published a selection of my Shetland photographs.